Caring for Rabbits.

1. Nutrition

Rabbits are what we call herbivores; they eat a complete vegetarian diet. To properly digest their food they need to eat it twice - they first pass a soft stool (called a caecotroph) which they then eat and then when this has digested they pass a firm round stool. Sometimes overweight Rabbits will have matted faecal material around their tail, this is because they cannot get around their backend (being so large) to eat the stool.

The most important part of a rabbit's diet is fibre which they need to make their guts move. If for any reason such as stress their guts stop moving and this can be rapidly fatal in rabbits. If for any reason the rabbit is not eating/passing faeces or you notice the abdomen enlarging this is a medical emergency and veterinary advice must be sought as soon as possible.

Chewing on fibre, fruit branches, carrots and other root vegetables helps reduce teeth problems.

70% of Rabbits diet should be Hay and Grass, with 5% being rabbit pellets and the rest being herbs and fruit and veg. You should never feed the mixed rabbit muesli as they will only pick the bits of food they like. Treats should be fresh vegetables such as parsnips, carrots and broccoli.

Always provide fresh water at all times.

Foods toxic to rabbits include nuts, beans, vine tomatoes, oak leaves, acorns, apple seeds, rhubarb leaves, coffee beans and eucalyptus.

2. Housing

Avoid extremes of weather, they can suffer heat stroke.

The hutch should be big enough for the rabbit to stretch out fully in all directions and hop three times from one end to the other.

Bedding should be wood shavings, hay or straw.

Good ventilation reduces the risk of respiratory disease.

Rabbits are great escape artists and will attempt to burrow.

They do need somewhere to escape and hide if they fear danger.

Rabbits can be trained to use a litter tray, using wood or paper litter. To train them, repeatedly put them in the tray and move the faecal pellets in there too. They should be cleaned out at least on a weekly basis.

Caring for Ferrets.

1. Nutrition

Ferrets are carnivores, so feed either a specific ferret diet or a good quality cat food. They can be fed whole rodents or rabbits. They need feeding ad lib so they can come and go to their food when they want to.

2. Housing

Ferrets should be housed in a large enclosure with a separate sleeping area. It should be high enough to allow the ferret to stand on its hind-legs. They should have a litter area away from where food and water is kept and water bottles/bowls should be refilled daily. Cloths, towels and old t-shirts should be used as bedding material as straw or sawdust may cause chronic respiratory problems. They can be kept with dogs and cats with supervision but never keep a ferret with a rabbit or rodent.

3. Handling

A helpful method of holding ferrets to restrain them for examination involves tucking the body under the handlers arm and along the handlers side with the back of the ferret's head held in the palm of the hand. This is a good position in which to give oral medications and to examine the head. Holding the ferret with one hand around the neck and the other firmly in front of the hind legs around the lower abdomen is a useful restraint used for giving injections to a fractious animal.

4. Behaviour

Ferrets are fun creatures and will enjoy burrowing, playing with toys and other ferrets. They will have a social hierarchy which may change with time. They rarely fight aggressively but will play fight lots!

5. Breeding

Male Ferrets are called hobs and females jills. The pregnancy length of a Ferret is 41-42days.
Jills become fertile when daylength exceeds 12 hours so March - September. If the Jill is not mated she will not ovulate and this will lead to persistently high levels of a hormone called Oestradiol. Unfortunately this can cause bone marrow suppression which is often fatal. To prevent this if a Ferret is not going to be mated either;

• Male ferrets should be vasectomised (this is the preferred choice) which will cause mating but no pregnancy.
  
• She should either be given a hormone injection at the start of each season or
  
• She should be neutered within her first year before the oestrus season has begun.

6. Health Check

Make sure the Ferret is happy, that it is bright and alert and showing normal behaviour. Check that the eyes are clear and ears are free of mites. Do a comb through of the hair for flea or flea dirt. To find flea dirt wet a piece of cotton wool and brush hairs onto it, if any of the cotton wool turns a dark red colour then flea dirt is present. Check the body condition score and check nails are not too long. Also if possible regularly check the teeth are in good condition.
Normal body temperature is 37.8-40ºC

7. Common Diseases

Influenza – 'flu' – Ferrets are very susceptible to this and therefore humans with flu-like symptoms should avoid contact with ferrets as it can pass to them. It can also pass from ferret to human.

Aleutian disease – a parvo type virus that causes multiple organ failure and chronic wasting disease. They can easily be treated so seek veterinary advice.

Ear mites – These are very common in Ferrets and are usually identified by a history of scratching and a crusty black secretion in the ear canals.

Fleas – A common problem and can be treated as in dogs so ask your vet if you see any fleas or flea dirt.
Interestingly Ferrets don't suffer from worm infestations so worming is generally not needed.

Insulinoma – tumour of the pancreas that can cause incoordination and stumbling and can be rapidly fatal. Surgery to remove the tumour can be performed but it is risky.

Cushings Disease – A common disease often seen as a symmetrical hairloss, the cause is a tumour in the adrenal gland and this can be successfully removed.

Lymphoma – a cancer of the white blood cells. Unfortunately treatment is difficult. Signs include weight loss and inappetence.

8. Vaccinations

Canine Distemper can affect ferrets in the same way it affects dogs. It causes a fatal respiratory and neurological disease but fortunately we can vaccinate against it.

Care for Guinea Pigs

1. Nutrition

Pelleted guinea pig food is the best as it stops selective eating and ensures a complete balanced diet is eaten. Fresh hay or grass must always be available as it helps with dental wear. Guinea pigs are the only other mammal other than humans that require vitamin C and sometimes a dietary supplement is needed. Green vegetables are a good source of Vitamin C. Water should be replenished daily.

2.Housing

Guinea pigs are highly social and are best housed in pairs or groups either single sexed or with the males neutered. They should be housed in hutches with a nesting area and a run attached for grazing. They like to be able to hide, so tunnels and upturned boxes make great environmental enrichment.

3. Handling

The animal should be grasped around the shoulders and then the abdomen supported with another hand.

4. Breeding

Guinea pigs have long pregnancies- 59-72days and produce precocious offspring (babies are large fully formed with fur and eyes open)
If bred over the age of 9-12months then a caesarean section will often be required as the hips cannot part.

Pregnancy Toxaemia is a life threatening condition in late pregnancy or shortly after giving birth. If a guinea pig is in this stage and seems off its food or depressed then you must seek urgent veterinary attention as the condition quickly progresses to collapse and coma. It is often caused by overfeeding females during early pregnancy.

5. Health Check

Guinea pigs should be inspected daily and examined for any signs of illness or disease. The eyes and ears should be checked and the skin for any wounds or lumps. The teeth should be examined and eating observed. Any signs of respiratory disease such as discharge from the nose should be closely monitored, and urine should be checked for any blood. Nails grow rapidly on guinea pigs and should be regularly trimmed.

6. Common Diseases

Dental disease - A lack of fibre in the diet will cause the teeth to grow abnormally and small spurs will form that cause ulceration of the cheeks and tongue. This will lead to infection and pain when eating. The pig may go completely off their food. The teeth can be corrected under anaesthesia.

Diarrhoea – A common condition that often develops after stress, if not rapidly resolving it is often easily treated with antibiotics and pro-biotics.

Pneumonia – A common problem where a poor diet is fed or where there is a poorly ventilated hutc . Symptoms include weight loss, inappetence, nasal discharge, sneezing and a snoring noise when they breathe. Treatment is supportive with antibiotics, vitamin C supplementation and nursing care.

Cystitis – A common condition in guinea pigs that often presents with blood in the urine. It can be caused by either infection or a bladder stone. Treatment is with antibiotics but of there are stones present they will need surgically removing.

Scurvy – This is a deficiency in Vitamin C and symptoms include lameness and swelling of joints and other non-specific signs. Treatment is supplementation and often the response to this is rapid. Green vegetables are a good source of Vitamin C.

Mites – Sign of mite or louse infestation include itching, self trauma, hair loss, skin thickening and pustular lesions. They can be prevented and treated by spot on treatments from your Veterinary surgeon.

Ear problems – These seem less common in guinea pigs and are often a result of infections. If a guinea pig has a head tilt or is circling then an inner ear infection would be suspected. They can be treated but may require surgical drainage.

How to look after the Chickens.

1.Housing and Pens for Chickens

Chickens need appropriate housing with sufficient space for proper perching at night.
You need to allow approximately 10cm perch space per hen or cockerel, in a properly constructed coop, which can be closed at night.

Chickens tend to choose where they go at night, and with adequate coop space, best suggestion is to leave them to decide by themselves.

They soon adopt a routine of rising at sun rise and going to bed by themselves at dusk. Always make sure they are shut in overnight, away from foxes in particular. There are autuomatic door closers for coops if the keeper cannot ensure being near the coop at dusk.

Outside, you need to provide adequate free space. This is easily achieved if your birds free roam. Alternatively, you need at least 50cm sq per bird.

The disadvantages of a fixed pen outside are disease control; the birds will turn over the land in a short time with natural, scratching, chicken behaviour. Constant defaecation and so forth in one location can lead to a build up of infection in the environment from droppings from these and wild birds.

Coops need to be of adequate construction with waterproof roof. Nest boxes, often as a "side extension" to the coop are also required. One box per 4 – 6 hens, allows enough time for laying.

Upon the coop floor, shavings work well, keeping the coop dry and are easy to clean out. Keepers often add some hay or straw in the nest boxes for layers.

Mite control is important with old houses. Red mites will live at the end of perches, emerging at night when birds are perching to feed. These are very hard to rid from a coop. Some keepers creosote the inside of coops in this regard. There is some success with this, but advice is to make sure at least a week is allowed after creosote before birds are allowed to reuse this coop.

What Birds Do You Keep?
The best breeds for laying eggs are hybrids or purer lines of the following breeds – leghorns, rhode island reds and orpingtons, which are all productive layers. Most back yard or pet chickens are kept for egg production.

If you want a smaller bird, then bantams are a good choice. They are effectively miniature versions of the chicken breeds, being perhaps half sized. You can choose lots of varieties like pekins, light sussex and so forth.

The bantams are less "commercial", tending to lay eggs in clutches for a few weeks, before going broody. The hybrid type of layers tend to keep laying for longer times and don't go broody so readily.

Keepers tend to limit the number of cockerels running with the birds. This avoids fighting, the hens getting overly "treaded" by the cockerels and also keeps the noise down for the surrounding visitors and neighbours.

If you have cockerels amongst laying hens, the eggs will more than likely be fertile. Should you choose to, eggs placed under a broody hen should hatch in 21 days.

2. Feeding the Chickens

Commercial chicken feeds are an extremely specialist area that can be usefully brought back to the "backyard" bird. Recommendation would always be to use formulas specially formulated for the breed and age you are keeping.

Young chicks need chick grower mash or pellets.

Point of Lay birds, (around 4 – 5 months ), and also adults, would generally be fine on layers pellets. Most birds would be expected to be going into egg production.

Additionally there is a need for grit, and sometimes oyster shell, for proper functioning of the gizzard and also good shell production on eggs.

Birds also thrive if they can exhibit normally scratching behaviour and forage for extras in their environment. It is simple to sprinkle mixed corn onto the ground for birds to scratch and pick up, besides their main ration. Great for training chickens to come for feed times and display also.

Make sure access paddocks have grass which is not too long, to avoid blockages in the crop, from eating long grass, which can prove fatal.
In home environments, birds are often fed household scraps. Not to be done here, in the park situation, for several reasons.

3. Basic Veterinary Observations

Firstly check for obvious external signs of health or sickness –

1. Count the hens and check numbers!.
2. Check hens have a full covering of feathers and no losses to feather pecking or other reasons, for example moulting, bullying, excessive cockerel interference, or mite infestations
   
3. Check limbs and feet for normal scale and colour – look here for scaly leg and bumble foot (problems from poor perching)
   
4. Colour of wattle and comb – a good sign of wellbeing. Comb/wattles are bright red in actively laying hens. Paleness can be a sign of anaemia from disease or mites.
   
5. Snuffles/ blocked nose – can be important respiratory disease, for example mycoplasma or, extremely, influenzas.
   
6. Dropped wings/lameness can be due to trauma and some viral diseases like Marek's disease.

Look at the environment for any signs of a problem.

Particularly look at droppings in the hen house and surround. Significant diseases like coccidiosis and salmonella can be spread through droppings. Particularly note abnormal colour or wet droppings. Its important that all feeders and drinkers are kept clean to minimise disease.

Found misshapen or rough shelled or soft eggs? – this can be common in hens when they first start to lay. It is also possibly an indicator of inadequate calcium in the diet. (sometimes hens lacking calcium will start to eat their eggs also). Some diseases affect the hen's oviduct and lead to deformed, or no eggs.

No eggs? This can be due to birds being too old or too young, perhaps disease, perhaps about to moult, or in the case of old fashioned birds like bantams, the hen has gone broody and thinks its time to hatch some eggs. A permanent loss can be a sign of disease.

Remember egg production goes down in the winter with shorter day length.

4. A Sick Bird?

When a sick bird is identified, take as much note of things in the environment that also seem to be abnormal. For example, wet droppings, or over crowding, or a new bird introduced.

Isolate the affected bird(s) to minimise disease spread and also to guard against the sick bird being bullied.

Call the Vet for advice. Our number at Abbeyfields is 01889 590449

5. Introducing a New Bird or Birds to the Flock.

With the introduction of new birds to an established number, you need to consider disease risk – particularly what other birds that have been lost have died from. If, for example, the birds have died after the fox got to the pen, then disease is not a problem.

If, on the other hand, birds died from, for example, mycoplasma disease, you need to speak with your Vet or supplier about disease risk and carriers before adding new birds.

Many commercial hen producers can provide stock vaccinated against specific disease.

Introductions should ideally be with the new birds separated from the established flock by a wire barrier for 2 – 3 weeks, before mixing. New birds may be kept in a separate, new coop and run, and penned here for up to 2 weeks, so they know where home is.

Finally let them meet under supervision, so you can control fighting.

6. Most Common Maintenance Requirements..

Worming outdoor poultry is important for round worms, and particularly the gape worm. Flubenvet is a commonly used powder wormer, with no egg withdrawal times, which can be added to feed.

Mite treatment – there are various recognised red mite and scaley leg treatments available, which involve treating the bird and possibly the pen also. Scaley leg mite treatments can mean painting the limbs to suffocate burrowing mites in the leg scale.

The northern fowl mite can be a problem and has no specific treatment under Veterinary Cascade rules. It is found that eprinomectin is extremely effective against this mite, with a topical application on the skin once a month. As an adjunct to this treatment, we tend to find that red mites, scaley leg mites and some worms are also managed by this product secondarily. The use of eprinomectin is an "off licence" treatment and so owners must consult with their vet about its use, but we find that in problem situations its use can help the well being of the birds very successfully.

With any concerns, speak to the Veterinary Surgeons. At Abbeyfields, call 01889 590449

Donkey Care.

Important Things You Need to Know.

Pet donkeys are a delight to visitors both young and old. They are smart and intelligent and don't deserve their reputation for stubbornness – they are just working out what's happening before they react.

A few useful facts to understand your beast!
Donkeys live for a long time, perhaps 30 – 40 years, which is longer than horses. They are a long term commitment.

A female donkey is known as a "jennet" or a "jenny"; a male donkey is known as a "jack". Young donkeys are known as "foals".

Donkeys will often form a special bond with children and people with disabilities.

People love petting donkeys. If you are worried about visitors coming close and feeding your donkey the wrong foods, put up visual and written signs warning people not to feed your donkeys.

Here are a few basic day to day husbandary tips will help them lead a long and happy life.....

1. Their Home and Paddock....

Donkeys come from warmer climates and they prefer warmer weather, but they can be very hardy where they have a warm, dry place to shelter. Make sure the donkeys have a shelter or stable where they can stand in away from wind and rain. Donkeys' coats are not as waterproof as horses and constant rain can seep through their coats, making life miserable.

Put straw bedding on the ground for comfort and warmth, especially in the cooler months of the year. This should be kept clean and free from a build up of droppings, which should be removed to the dung pile daily. (Always keep an eye on droppings for signs of problems like diarrhoea or worms).

Even in wet winter months, when the donkeys will use this accommodation more readily, it is wise to leave at least the top half of the stable door open to allow a view of what's happening in the environment and allow ventilation.

Remember to check paddock fencing daily for security and safety from injury.

Pick up any litter, in particular, which may have found its way into the paddock to avoid ingestion and possible colic.

2. Feed and Water

Firstly, donkeys must have a constant and clean water supply at all times. So check drinkers are working and bowls are clean. Donkeys don't like dirty water. Remember to break ice or provide separate buckets of water on icy mornings.

Keep the donkeys' feed area clean. Remove mud, wash food buckets daily and keep hay in a string basket attached to a wall, or a hay-net, off the floor.

It is important to feed donkeys properly. Ideally the bulk of the diet is through natural grazing in paddocks all day. Be wary of eating too much since donkeys can put on weight easily. (Much harder to lose it)

If a donkey could have good quality grass pasture all year round, it would be unlikely to need any other kinds of food, apart from a little hay to assist with dental hygiene. However, in the Park situation, this will not be possible, and extra nourishment is needed. Here are several alternatives you may consider.....

1. Barley Straw - It can be useful to have access to barley straw to ensure the donkeys are getting plenty of fibre. The amount of grass donkeys have access to can be controlled, particularly where they are getting fat, and barley straw can be fed as a high fibre, low sugar supplement. Barley straw more closely resembles what donkeys would eat in the wild.
   Constant access to straw will allow a donkey to eat to appetite without consuming too many calories and therefore risk putting on excess weight which has associated risks of developing laminitis and hyperlipaemia.
   
2. Hay or Haylage is useful particularly in winter where there is less grass available.
   (Also useful where old or sick donkeys need better quality feeding).
   Meadow hay and seed hay are good for feeding to donkeys.
   Try to store freshly cut hay in a dry barn for 3 months plus before feeding to reduce the chance of colic and laminitis when first fed.
   
3. DO NOT feed silage. Its high moisture level, low pH, low fibre and high protein level make it unsuitable.
   
4. High fibre cubes can be useful where hay is in short supply. You need to feed ones with high fibre, low sugar content. (Such as those for horses prone to laminitis). Good in old and thin donkeys.
   Care they are not eaten too quickly. Perhaps soak them with a small amount of water. Soaked cubes fed as a mash can be helpful in old donkeys with poor teeth.
   Avoid any cubes which contain cereals as these are not suitable for feeding to donkeys. Products marketed as 'mixes' are usually cereal based and again not suitable.
   
5. Short chop chaff products
   Chaff is a mixture of chopped up hay and/or straw and there are many types of chaff on the market, often supplemented with grasses, minerals and herbs and so forth. Chaff products marketed for horses prone to laminitis are useful for donkeys that have difficulty eating grass, hay and straw due to poor dentition, and can be used as feed supplements or fed ad lib as a total hay/straw replacer. Always choose a chaff which is 'laminitic safe' and preferably with a sugar content of less than 8%.
6. Dried sugar beet pulp can be useful in small amounts to tempt sick donkeys. It doesn't replace hay. Use the un-molassed versions to avoid laminitis. You MUST soak it before feeding – refer to the manufacturer's instructions for times.
7. Fruit and vegetables can be fed in small amounts. Particularly good to feed in the winter to encourage appetite.
   DO NOT feed potatoes, cabbage/cauliflower type vegetables, onions, leeks, stoned fruit or anything that is old and mouldy.
   Ragwort is poisonous to donkeys – never feed it to them and check hay carefully to make sure it is not in the hay.
   GOOD things to give are.. carrots, apples, bananas, pears, turnips and Swedes.
   When preparing fruit and veg, cut it into sticks, not rounds, to avoid choking.
   Vitamins and Minerals. Donkeys usually obtain all of the required vitamins and minerals from the straw, grass and hay in their diets. However, it is good that they have free access to an equine mineralized block, which contains various minerals including salt to supplement their diet all year round to prevent any deficiencies. Blocks designed for other livestock may be dangerous for donkeys as some contain inappropriate mineral levels.

One final thing..... NEVER feed grass clippings and ensure that your neighbours also know not to as they can lead to colic.

3. Activity and Exercise.

Donkeys need activity and exercise for physical and mental health. Natural grazing in a paddock can mean a large area is covered daily. But in situations where the donkeys are stabled a lot of the time, it is also important to provide an area to walk and and trot about, should they so wish. Encourage turn out into paddocks, allowing a space to shelter if the weather is poor. Lead rein walking is useful also, if permitted on the site, for exercise, training to manners and mental well being.

4. Donkeys are best with a Companion.

Donkeys are herd animals and they enjoy company. So it is ideal that you have 2 donkeys living together on site.

5. Basic Veterinary Care – Worming and Vaccinations.

Donkeys are hardy and almost disease-free. They do need to be vaccinated up to date against flu and tetanus. This generally is an annual vaccination, often seeming to fall at the end of the season.

As a general guide, donkeys should be wormed every 3 months. There are many wormers on the market and you must follow the protocol given. Change to a different class of wormer every year and, in addition, worm for tape worms in autumn and spring.

6. Grooming and Hoof Care.

Grooming is important in your daily care routine for the following reasons..

Simply contact with the donkey – you can assess its alertness, demeanour, whether it is behaving normally and so forth. Donkeys like fuss and interaction. It makes them feel better.

You remove dead hair and dry mud from the coat. (Never brush off wet mud, let it dry first. Alternatively you could bath or wash the donkey if it was an important event).

You check for lumps/bumps, and anything unusual that you didn't notice the day before.

Check for lice, bot eggs and so forth whilst grooming

Check and clean the hooves daily. Make the donkey pick up its feet for cleaning . (NOTE it is wise to wear a protective helmet when attending donkeys' feet where there is a risk of kicking)

Donkeys can get split hooves, dryness and abscesses if inadequately cared for.

Keep regular Farrier appointments (every 3 months or so) to keep feet trimmed. Rocky and firm terrains help to keep feet neat and short. There is no need to shoe them.

When you find something that's not what you expect, speak to a Vet or your Manager for advice.

The telephone number for Abbeyfields Vets in Rocester is 01889 590449